One Special Night

July 4, 1983, Monday

It's Independence Day! No sign of that here--no fireworks, no barbecues, etc. It's just another hot, summer day in Japan. In fact, it's very HOT today! To top it all off, I had to carry my belongings all the way for the first time this time. Up until now, I had some crew members from the running clubs transporting my bag to designated points.

Today's route was 45km to the small town of Kumihama. I had to run through some dangerously dark and winding tunnels in the mountains and was almost killed on two occasions. It happens so often now that I don't get as spooked as I did earlier. I am just extra alert when I go through these tunnels so that I can get out of the way in a split second if required.

As I was running on a lonely stretch of mountain road leading to the town of Kumihama, I was offered a ride by two beautiful girls in a car. It was really tempting, but I had to turn them down. Believe me, it was a tough decision. The car slowed and the girls asked me a few questions, like "What are you doing?" and "Why?" I told them I was on my way to Kumihama, so they informed me they would see me there at a certain coffee shop. The run into town was on the downhill side of a mountain pass. I picked up the pace, but it wasn't entirely due to gravity. When I got into town, instead of going straight to City Hall, I went directly to the coffee shop where the two mighty fine girls were waiting.

The girls and I had a cold drink and we chatted for a while. They are fashion models, they said. I believed them. They also asked, "What are you doing later tonight? We are going to be free after 8:30pm." I told the girls that I was not sure where I was going to be staying tonight, but I can meet them at the coffee shop again at 8:30. They agreed, and we parted. I was not feeling so tired anymore.

I had to get to City Hall, so I started running again mainly to get myself sweaty again so that I would look like I just finished running into town. I met with the people at City Hall and they introduced me to the man who was to take me to the place where I will be staying. No hotel or ryokan rooms are available tonight, I was told. I got into the car with him, and we exchanged greetings. The man said to me, "Mr. Schumann, I am a Zen Buddhist priest. You will be staying at my Zen Buddhist temple tonight." What??? The one night when I am supposed to hook up with some mighty fine ladies, I am staying in a temple on top of a mountain? There is something wrong with this picture!

So here I am, in a 600-year-old Zen Buddhist temple. This is an interesting place. I am not tall (5'9"), but I have to duck to go into the rooms. People were much smaller when this place was built. The nails in the wooden beams are old. They are square and solidly planted in the wood. The room I am staying in is bare with just tatami mats and a futon mattress. When I lay down, I can hear some strange rustling noises from some kind of animals under the floor.

This is like staying in a museum. The priest heard that I am a history teacher and he knows I have a strong interest in history. He brought out a 1000-year-old scroll and showed it to me. Wow! You can just sense the history of this place. He also gave me a few coins that were found when they changed the wood flooring a number of years back. These coins are at least 200 years old. I will be sure to take good care of these. This place is very special and I am fortunate to be staying here. I'd really like to come back here to spend some more time in this temple. Maybe I can get in a summer of training here.

The priest pulled me aside later in the evening and told me about two children (boys) staying here with him. According to the priest, the father of these boys is a Yakuza and the mother has basically abandoned the kids because she is unable to support them. They are staying here at the temple and the priest and his wife are the kids' parents now. The older boy is a junior high school student and is a distance runner on the track team. The priest has asked me if I could walk the kids to school in the morning and talk with them about the sport of track and about life in general. Of course, that would be great. If there is any way I could help the kids, that would make me happy. With that, I said good night.

As I lay here on the bare tatami mat, I can't help but think how I would be spending the evening if, just this one night, I were staying in town. Someone must be watching over me.